Russian Orthodox Server's Sticharion used at the coronation of the last Russian Emperor Nicholas II and Empress Alexandra Feodorovna Romanov

Manufactured by: A & V Sapozhnikovy
1896, Moscow
Condition: Very good original condition with no repairs, though showing some wear and damage to the upper shoulder panel on the back as shown

Reputable provenance available upon request

- русский текст

The coronation ceremonies of Imperial Russia were remembered by the witnesses as a 'magical dream' remeniscent of a 'scene from a Wagner opera.' Today, more than a century after the last coronation in Russian history, the coronation garmets make it possible to imagine the fairytale splendor of these lavish celebrations.

Peter the Great himself played an active role in developing the procedure for the Russian Imperial coronation ceremony. It united elements of ancient Russian consecration ceremonies, based on Byzantine tradition, and Western European coronation ceremonies from the late XVII century to early XVIII century. The ceremony required specific furnishings, which were created for the first time in 1724 with great care by the most skilled artists and decorators. The served as the standard for the following ten Russian coronations.

Preparations for coronations usually took about a year and was managed by a special Coronation Committee, which was allocated colossal sums of money from the State budget. Expensive fabrics and lace were ordered abroad or made in Russian workshops; snow-white ermine for the coronation mantles and the throne canopies was transported from Siberia. The most eminent master-craftsmen created the intricate imbroidery and applique work that decorated the Emperor's coronation outfits, uniforms of the heralds, and vestments of the clergy.

 

The Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna, Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, Emperor Nicholas II (detail) painted by Laurits Tuxen

Annointing of Tsar Nicholas II painted by Valentin Serov

 

At the Nicholas II’s coronation, the clergymen of the Moscow Kremlin wore vestments that had been specifically made of the occasion using magnificent brocade from the famous Russian textile manufactory A & V Sapozhnikovy, suppliers of fabric to the Imperial Court since 1852. This Sticharion was made for a server performing the church ceremony on the Cathedral of the Assumption.

The main element of the pattern is the image of a double-headed eagle beneath the crown, holding a scepter in its right claw. The design was modeled on Venetian golden velvet with eagles that was imported to Moscow court in the second half of the XVII century, and used to make a ceremonial coat for Tsar Feodor Alexeevich, the elder brother of the future Emperor Peter I. In 1696 this coat was remade into a vestment for the patriarch (the head of Russian Church) and is kept in the Armory collection to this day.

In creating the fabric for the coronation celebrations of 1896, Russian weavers successfully reproduced the pattern of the Italian velvet on brocade using a different technique, recreating the effect of the ancient raised velvet using silver gilt threads of varying shades and thickness.

Historical dress in the collection of Moscow Kremlin Museum's Armory Chamber
Sakkos made in the Moscow Kremlin's workshops. 1691. Velvet - Italy. Belonged to Patriarch Adrian.		Coat made in the Moscow Kremlin's workshops. end of XVII c. Gold thread weaving - Western Europe. Belonged to Peter I.

Literature:

• "Magnificence of the Tsars: Ceremonial Men's Dress of the Russian Imperial Court, 1721-1917 From the Collection of the Moscow Kremlin Museums. Victoria & Albert Museum, London, 2008
• Moscow Kremlin Museum's Armory Chamber, The Illustrated Guide, Moscow, 1995

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